Hem-along week 4 - blind hemming

Previously on hem-along:
Introduction
Week 1 - double fold hem (wovens)
Week 2 - single fold hem (wovens)
Week 3 - hemming stretch fabric

This week I tried out blind hemming. This lovely finish creates stitching which is virtually invisible on the right side of the fabric. It is used to hem garments, curtains and a wide range of other sewn projects. Read on to see how I used both hand and machine sewing to create blind hems.

Hand stitching

To begin I turned up the hem and pressed it and pinned it in place. I used a single fold, but you may choose a double fold. If you are using a single fold and the fabric is prone to ravelling it would be a good idea to overedge or overlock the hem edge first (in my example I use a selvedge edge).



Next I threaded a needle with a single thread and knotted it at the end. Using a single thread helps reduce the visibility of the stitching on the right side of the fabric.



Next I gently rolled back the hem edge, anchored the the thread in the hem and then began stitching from right to left. Small stitches are taken in one layer of the fabric then the other.



First a small horizontal stitch ...



... then a tiny horizontal stitch, catching just a thread or two ... repeating this stitching pattern to the end of the hem. If this was a garment such as a skirt, I would overstitch every now and then to make sure that if a bit of the hem comes undone the whole thing doesn't come down!



When I finished stitching I pressed the hem in place. Can you see the stitching?



Its hard to see on the right side too!




Machine stitching

I really should preface the next part of my experiment with the words: it didn't work like this the first time. Or the second or third!

I hadn't used my blind hem stitch foot before and really had to experiment to find the right settings. If you are new to blind hemming, I can highly recommend testing your blind hem foot on some scraps before tackling your project.

To begin, I turned up the hem and pressed it. I used a double fold, but you may choose just a single fold. If the fabric is prone to ravelling it would be a good idea to overedge or overlock the hem edge first.



Now for a little trick: the edge of the hem needed to be rolled outward, exposing about a quarter of an inch. Like this ... (click on the pictures if you would like a close up)



To blind hem stitch I needed to fit a special presser foot on my sewing machine.

Each brand of sewing machine has its own special foot. In the demonstration here, I have a Janome foot. (It has a white plastic guide which can be adjusted - wound in and out - using the silver screw). If you have a blind hem foot and it looks quite different, don't panic. There is plenty of variation in the appearance between makes and models - consult your sewing manual for the finer detail of how your foot works.

If you have an adjustable guide on your presser foot, you may need to experiment with its position.



I also needed to select a special blind hem stitch. On my machine this is a repeating stitch pattern that has two short zigzags followed by one long zigzag. (In the picture below this is shown as stitch 11 on my sewing machine).

You might find that your sewing machines has a different style of repeating stitch - one that takes two straight stitches and then a zigzag.

Some sewing machines have both stitches. If you have this luxury, use the straight stitch for wovens and the zigzag for stretch fabric.

You may need to experiment with the stitch width to perfect your blind hem stitching.



Then I positioned the exposed hem under the presser foot. On my foot the white plastic guide aligns with the fold. Check your sewing machine manual for instructions for your presser foot.



As I sewed I took care to just catch the left side of the hem with the long zigzag stitch. This part of the stitch shows on the outside of the hem, so it needs to be as small as possible.



This is how the finished stitching looked. The long zigzag caught the left side by only a couple of millimetres.



The next step was to roll the hem edge back inward. Like this ... (click on the pictures if you would like a close up)



After a quick press with the iron ....



... the hem looked like this from the outside. You can see that if I used a matching thread, that it would be very difficult to see the stitching at all.



Conclusion

I really liked trying out both the hand and machine blind hemming and will use both again. In fact, I have already used the hand stitching technique again to finish a velvet skirt and a wool jacket. I'm looking forward to using the machine stitching on the next skirt I make.

Next time: A diversion to a garment-specific hem - the Euro or tricky hem for jeans. This magic technique shortens jeans, while preserving the original hem. After this I will be returning to general hemming techniques with rolled hems: by hand, machine sewing and overlocker.

Hem along week 3 - hemming stretch fabric

Previously on hem-along:
Introduction
Week 1 - double fold hem (wovens)
Week 2 - single fold hem (wovens)

This week I looked at how to create hems on stretch fabrics. Stretch fabrics behave a little differently to wovens, so I had fun trying out some new techniques.

The right notions



Before starting my experiments I put a new ballpoint needle on my sewing machine. Stretch fabrics are constructed differently to wovens and universal sewing machine needles tend to puncture the fibres. This can result in holes and runs in the fabric. A ballpoint needle is much better for stretch fabric, especially knits. It has a rounded tip that pushes the fibres apart without cutting them.

Next I threaded my machine with a polyester thread. Cotton is generally considered bad news for stretch fabrics – as the fabric stretches, it is liable to break. Stick with polyester.

Some people also swear by using woolly nylon in the machine bobbin. Woolly nylon is a type of thread generally used for overlocking (serging). Its a whispy, shiny thread which will stretch a bit.

I purchased some for this experiment (I found it located with the big overlocking thread spools at the haberdashery).



Most of my reading recommended winding the bobbin by hand to avoid overstretching the thread.




The raw edge

Stretch fabrics tend not to fray like wovens. If you do need to finish the raw edge the same methods I looked at in week 2 - zigzag, overlocked and hand overcast - would be suitable. This week I used a 3-thread overlock stitch on all my hem edges (below).



Choosing the right finish for the hem

Stretch fabrics typically have somewhere between 20 and 75% stretch (with Spandex even higher), so one of the main considerations is to choose a finish that allows the hem the right amount of "give". This means considering how stretchy the fabric is, as well as where the hem is placed.

A skirt hem on a low stretch fabric, for example, won’t need as much “give” as say, the neckline on a very stretchy fabric. A different technique can be used with each. I’ve looked at 4 possibilities below.

In the illustrations below I used a bit of very cheap remnant that I picked up in a discount store. This poly-blend, one-way stretch fabric was probably the nastiest I have ever used. It was horrible to sew on, had poor recovery after being stretched and actually frayed. Urggh!

Straight stitch

The first possibility is to take up the hem with a single line of straight stitching. It’s an option that is not suited to all hems. Straight stitching has little “give” so its best used where the fabric has lower stretch and the hemline doesn’t need to stretch too much.

In my example below I overedged the raw edge, then turned and lightly pressed the hem and secured it with a line of straight stitch

Then the stretch test. Oh dear - immediate breakage!



The greater the stretch, the more thread – and therefore stitches - you need. Too few and your stitching will snap like mine did. You can increase the number of stitches by reducing the stitch size.

The hem performed a little better after I reduced the stitch size considerably (see below). And even better with the addition of woolly nylon thread in the bobbin. It still wasn't very stretchy, but there weren't any more breakages.



Zig-zag

Most modern sewing machines have stitches that are specifically designed for stretch fabrics (for example, “lightening” stitch). You can however simply use a plain old zigzag stitch, which I tried below.



Again, I over-edged the raw edge, turned and pressed the hem and then stitched. The zigzag has built-in "give" in it. At the extreme when stretched to its fullest extent the stitch would start to look straight.



The zig-zag stitching survived the stretch test well. Woolly nylon performed slightly better in the bobbin than regular thread, but both stretched well.

Coverstitch

Are you wearing a t-shirt? Take a look at the hem. Chances are that it has been finished with a coverstitch. It comprises two or three lines of parallel topstitching on the outside ....



... and an overlock stitch over the raw edge on the inside.



This stitch is used widely in the commercial world. To use it in home sewing you need a special machine – either a coverstitch machine or an overlocker (serger) with a coverstitch option. Many of the higher-end (read: expensive!) overlockers also provide this special stitching.

Sadly my overlocker cannot coverstitch. However, there is something you can do with a regular sewing machine to create a “faux” coverstitch. Read on!

Twin needle

A twin needle can be used to create a double row of top stitching on your hem. As the name would suggest, this clever gadget has two needles sitting side-by-side on the one shank.



You simply pop it on your sewing machine, add a second spool of thread and thread both needles. Et voila: you’re ready to sew two perfectly spaced lines of straight stitch. (You may need to consult your sewing machine manual about adding the second spool).



Like all things faux, once you look a little deeper, you will see that the stitching isn’t really quite like a coverstitch at all. Instead of overlocking on the underside, there is zigzag stitch running between the topstitching. This zigzag is, however, beneficial as it allows a bit of stretch in the hem.



Note: It is possible for the two threads to get tangled and break during sewing. It can get UGLY! To minimise the chance of this happening, pass the thread down separate sides of the little tension disc near the top of the machine, when you are threading. Try also to sit the reels on the spool pin so one winds clockwise and the other, anti-clockwise.

Averting disasters

Tip #1 – if possible, try sewing on a scrap of fabric first, to see how your stretch fabric will behave

Tip #2 – if you are using a very fine stretch fabric and the twin needle starts to create an ugly ridge effect, the fabric is slipping. Try adding some fusible hemming tape inside the hem before stitching.

Tip #3 – if your stitching looks puckered, try putting a piece of tissue paper above and below the fabric while you stitch. This will help the fabric glide under the presser foot and avoid it being dragged down into the needle plate. Tear the paper away when you have finished.

Conclusion

After this experiment, I wouldn't bother too much with straight stitch - it really isn't forgiving enough. Both the zig-zag and twin needle stitching worked well. I really like using the twin needle – I think it creates the nicest of all the sewing machine finishes. Of course, I could always keep the coverstitch machine on the wish list ...

Next time: Next time on hem-along, I will be looking at how to blind hem by both hand and machine.

A-hem ... may I have your attention ...

Please select the correct answer.
A hem is:

1. The noise you make when clearing your throat
   Sample usage: A-Hem. What's going on here? (pointing to floor)


2. An accusation used by small children
   Sample usage: It wasn't me that poured that all over the floor; it was Hem (pointing to brother)


3. A song frequently mimed due to poor eyesight and small print
   Sample usage: Please turn to Hem number ...


4. Neatened lower edge of a garment or other sewn item. Generally turned up and held in place by a safety pin stitching

If you have an interest in hems of the sewn variety, please visit in the coming weeks when I will conduct a series of completely haphazard hem experiments (in the same line as Seam Along).

There will be a veritable hem-o-rama of blind hems, hem facings, rolled hems, covered hems .... and more. Both the sewing machine and overlocker will be gainfully employed and I will be using soft lens photography to pass off some very dodgy hand sewing. And, when I work up the courage, there will be a sprinkling of tricks like mitring corners and turning up tapers.

I might even show you some of my very own secret short-cuts ... the ones you won't hear about in your sewing class or in books. (Think of the potential of the humble staple, here people).

Next Wednesday: Starting at the beginning. I will be looking at the the basic turned up hem on both woven and stretch fabrics. Hope you will come back for Hem-Along!

Seam along week 9 (final) - Decorative seams

Previously on seam-along ...
Introduction
Week 1 - Simple edge finishes
Week 2 - French seams
Week 3 - Bound seams
Week 4 - Flat fell seams
Week 5 - Taped (stabilised) seams
Week 6 - Overlocked seams
Week 7 - Bulky seams
Week 8 - Curves and corners

Introduction

For the final week of my work on my seam sampler, I decided to try some decorative seams: finishes that can be used to pretty-up the outside of a project. I had great fun trialling top stitching, binding and piping.

Top stitched seams

Top stitching is a visible line of stitching found on the finished side of the seam. This simple,decorative stitch line gives a nice smart finish to the seam.

To start, I tried out single top stitching using some denim. First I sewed a plain seam and then press it to one side.



Next I threaded my machine up with a nice contrasting red thread (put your sunglasses on!).

Ideally top stitch is done with a proper top stitching - or button hole twist - thread. This is a heavier weight thread that really stands out. I used Gutterman branded thread. You need only thread the spool - the bobbin can take normal weight thread.



From the right side of the fabric, I then sewed a single (relatively!) straight line parallel to the seam edge. See how well the top stitch thread stands out?



For a fancier effect you can do double top stitching - two parallel lines.



You can sew the lines separately, but the easiest way to create a double row is to use a twin needle.

If you haven't tried one of these before they are great fun. They come in a variety of types and gauges (e.g. stretch, universal, jean), as well as having varying distances between the needles.

Aside from the twin needle (shown below) you do need a second spool pin on your machine. Initially I had to hunt around on my Janome, working out what to do. Some machines have a fixed second spool pin, but on my machine the vertical second pin is a little attachment.



Once you have set up your second spool pin, you pop both reels on the machine (I cheated economised and bought just the one reel, then wound a bit of thread onto a bobbin!) and thread both up, passing the thread through the separate needles.

Note: It is possible for the two threads to get tangled and break during sewing. It can get UGLY! To minimise the chance of this happening, pass the thread down separate sides of the little tension disc near the top of the machine, when you are threading. Try also to sit the reels on the spool pin so one winds clockwise and the other, anti-clockwise.

Finally, as you sew you will see two beautiful evenly spaced lines of stitching appear. On the reverse size of the stitching, you will see a sort of zig-zag stitch that passes between the two lines. This is because you have only one thread available from the bottom (bobbin).

Bound seam

The seam is created by binding matching the wrong sides of the fabric together and then enclosing the seam in bias binding. I have tried this on a couple of bags. It works nicely where the seam doesn't need to be opened out flat and gives a clean finish to the inside of the seam.

For this finish you need a length of purchased or handmade double-fold bias binding.

In the example below, I matched the wrong sides of the denim fabric together.



Next I open one side of the bias binding out and matched its edge with the edge of the seam allowance. I then pinned it in place.



The next step was stitch all the way along the fold line on the bias binding.



Once this was done, I carefully turn the free edge of the binding over, to enclose the the whole seam edge. Again, I pinned the binding in place.



Finally I "stitched in the ditch" - that is the little dip where the denim fabric and the binding met. This caught in the binding on the reverse side.



Et voila! A nice neat bias bound seam.



Piped seam

Piping is a tube of bias-cut, decorative fabric that you sew into the seam. There are two sorts: flat (just the fabric tube) and corded (where the tube wraps around a piece of cord). For my sampler, I decided to try making corded piping. You can purchase different-sized piping cord from haberdasheries.

To begin, I cut a strip of fabric on the bias. If you have a long seam and need lots of piping, you will almost certainly need to join the fabric strips end-to-end. Its a very similar process to making bias binding - see here for some photographs demonstrating how to attach the ends.

The width of the strip needs to be great enough to enclose the cord and leave a 1.5cm [⅝"] seam allowance.



Next, I enclosed a piece of cord and matched the raw edges of the fabric strip. I then pinned it to hold the cord in place.



Then, I attached a zipper foot to my machine and positioned it to the left of the needle. A zipper foot allows you to sew close to the cord. (There are also special piping presser feet you can buy for different machines).

A word of warning ... in my excitement/naivety I sewed a little bit too close in to the cord! See how close the needle is? Whew - I sewed up that cord within an inch of its life!!

The wise sewer would leave a wee gap, so that one additional row of stitching can be added between this stitch line and the cord, when sewing the actual seam later.



Finally I sandwiched the piping between the fabric, with the right sides of the denim together. The cord faced away from the seam allowance. Then I stitched the seam.



After turning the seam right-side out, the pretty, rounded piping is visible.



Channel seam

This is a very cute seam - certainly something a little bit different. I chanced upon it this week while reading through a reference book. Its classified as a top-stitched seam, but has an interesting twist.

To begin, I machine basted a plain seam (using nice long stitches), then pressed the seam allowance open.



Next I cut a strip of fabric the width of the seam allowance and length of the seam. Matching the right side of the strip with the wrong side of of the seam, I pinned the strip in place. You can choose a matching or a contrasting fabric.



Then I flipped the fabric to the right side and top stitched through all the thicknesses, along both sides of the seam. In the picture below, you can see that I have already sewed down the right-hand side.



And finally, I carefully remove the large stitches from the machine basting, using my seam ripper. This opens up the "channel".



Here is the finished channel seam.



Peek-a-boo!



Conclusion

I will definitely use all these decorative finishes again. They are all quite straight forward, though I would like a little more practice with piping, to make sure I get the stitching in just the right place. The channel seam was a definite favourite, so now I am on the look-out for the right project to use it with.

Do you have other decorative seam finishes that you like using?


Next week: This is the conclusion of the seam-along. I've had great fun putting my sampler together - I hope its been useful to you too. I am on a roll now, so next week I will be starting a hem sampler. Stay tuned for details of the types of machine and hand sewn hems that I will look at. If you would like to hem-along with me, you are most welcome! Update: Hem-related articles can be found over here.