Sew handy: some places where new sewers can find like-minded folk

www.sewing.patternreview.com
Established in 2001 patternreview.com boasts a membership of over 200,000 people from around the world. The site began its life as a place to collect people's experiences of and opinions about sewing patterns. The site has expanded to include expert forums, real-time chats, sewing contests, online sewing classes and more. Although it is a membership site (free and paid available), it is possible to browse as a guest. As at May 2010 there are nearly 70,000 reviews in the database.

www.seamingly.com
If you like reading sewing blogs and websites, this is a great place to go. With hundreds of listings, there's hours of reading fun and inspiration ahead. Each site is listed with a synopsis and a snap shot of the front page. The listings are displayed in order of popularity. Previews of recent posts from a selection of blogs are displayed on the front page and there search functionality if you are looking for a special topic. (At the time of writing there was news that a forum was going to be added.)

www.sewmamasew.com
Sew Mama Sew is an online fabric and pattern store, blog and forum rolled into one. The many thousands of posts in the forum, are the first indicator that this site attracts a huge following. Sew Mama Sew regularly posts fabulous reviews and tutorials, as well as hosting themed months and sew-alongs.

www.craftstylish.com
Taunton Press, publisher of reknown sewing magazine Threads, is the host of Craftstylish. Whilst not exclusively a sewing community, you will find hundreds of relevant posts once you look at the Sewing category. The website is described as being "a place to connect, discover and share with other crafters" and a "destination for fabulous inspiration and expert instruction on the latest trends, projects, ideas, and materials". Members can also showcase their work and post tutorials.

www.threadbanger.com
If you like internet TV you will love ThreadBanger. Branded as "the home of DIY fashion how-tos, home décor tips, and more", the site offers regular episodes that can be accessed at the site or by RSS subscription or podcast. With a contemporary, edgy blog and a forum with thousands of members, there's plenty to see and do here.

www.burdastyle.com
Burdastyle is the brainchild of pattern company, Burda. One of the greatest drawcards of this hub is concept of "open source sewing" - or copyright free patterns. The site provides patterns for download, sewing tutorials, discussions and places to share projects. Patterns and tutorials are shared by Burdastyle and its 349,720 members alike. The great sense of community extends to the 240 "real life" BurdaStyle Sewing Clubs (BSCs) throughout the world.

www.mysewingcircle.com
My Sewing Circle is the new kid on the block, having only been launched in February of this year. Its a place to organise your fabric stash and tools, browse fabrics and patterns, show off your projects and admire the work of others (for anyone who is a knitter or crocheter, the site was inspired by Ravelry.com). The community and its features are in their infancy, but it looks promising. To access the site you need to be a member, but membership is free.

Some other not-exclusively-sewing-but-wonderfully-crafty hubs:
www.whipup.net
www.oneprettything.com
www.craftzine.com
www.craftster.org
www.craftgossip.com
www.cutoutandkeep.net

Sew handy: some notions references for new sewers

How to choose sewing thread
http://www.wikihow.com/Choose-Sewing-Thread
This step-by-step introduction at Wiki How, is particularly good for differentiating types of thread. The authors point you in the right direction for matching thread to projects. Did you know you should use silk thread for basting fabric?

A factual look at sewing thread
http://www.ylicorp.com/pdf/tot-brochure.pdf
This brochure titled A Thread of Truth, is technical article about the properties and manufacture of thread. Despite the level of detail, its still quite an accessible read and is geared to the home sewer. Learn about tex size, tenacity, loop strength, color fastness, raw materials, finishes and construction.

How a button works
http://www.ehow.com/how-does_4673326_a-button-work.html
This eHow article clearly explains the differences between sew-through, shank and frog (Mandarin) buttons, as well as pronged and post snaps.

Attaching buttons
http://www.sewing.org/files/guidelines/12_105_attaching_buttons.pdfThe Sewing and Craft Alliance provide an introduction for attaching both flat and shank buttons, as well as creating a shank on a flat button. I like their suggestions for "novelty" button applications, including tying the button on!

Elastic - the notion that gives
http://www.sewing.org/files/guidelines/6_145_elastic_notion_that_gives.pdf
I undoubtedly first bookmarked this article because of its title! It is, however, a very good introduction to using elastic. Find out whether you should be using woven, braided or knitted elastic for your next project. This fact sheet is full of useful information about measuring and sewing with this notion.

All about zippers
http://www.sewingsupport.com/zippers.html
This article is text only, but is a good introduction to zippers. It details types, parts and how to make a selection. There is even a short description on how to shorten a zipper.

The ABC of zip fasteners
http://www.industrie.coats.de/zip/zipabc/?_lng=
Large manufacturer Coates, provides some great diagrams and photographs. See the differences between spiral, profile, concealed and metal zippers, as well as various types of open and closed ended fasteners.

Sew handy: some sewing pattern references for new sewers

Taking proper body measurements
Burda Fashion
These 3 pages on the Burda website provide detailed instructions about how and where to take measurements for sewing women's garments. Good diagrams are provided. The last page helps you determine the shape of your hip, bottom and tummy.

How to choose the correct pattern size
iSew
Commercial patterns are sized for ten different body classifications, including children, junior and men. Use the information here to decide on the sizing for your next project. Of note is the explanation regarding differences between Misses and Womens patterns.

Browse the pattern company catalogs online
Simplicity and New Look
Kwik Sew
Burda
Butterick, McCall and Vogue
While nothing beats leafing through the glossy pages of a real pattern book, the reality is many of us don't have the time (for example, diverting my attention for a few nano-seconds from my preschools, would lead to an embarrassing rampage). These sites are invaluable for browsing from home. The downside is that seasonal-collection information is sometimes topsy-turvy for those of us in the southern hemisphere.

Downloadable patterns
SewingPatterns.com
www.burdastyle.com/patterns
If you like shopping in your pyjamas in the dead of night, then you will love these sites. Download, print, match, tape and cut out your own patterns at home. SewingPatterns.com offers a subset of commercial patterns for download at a reduced price. Burdastyle offers a range of lovely free and modestly priced patterns. Be warned though - you will need a lot of sticky tape and printer paper and some patience!

How to read a sewing pattern
http://sewmamasew.com/blog2/?p=478
If you are about to sew from your first commercial pattern, look no further than this excellent primer by Lara at Sew Mama, Sew. You will find lots of helpful details regarding the envelope back, the pattern pieces, markings and instructions.

Brief introduction to pattern alterations
New Mexico State University
This site gives an overview of types of pattern alterations you might make to improve a garment's fit. Its a good summary with short explanations and diagrams (though probably not a substitute for a good book or class).

The font of all knowledge
sewing.patternreview.com
Last, but most definitely not least, is this outstanding site. The comprehensive knowledge base at PatternReview is always worth consulting before buying or starting on a pattern. Thousands of sewers have submitted their personal reviews; rating the best and worst. There is a lot of candid, anecdotal information about alterations and workarounds. If you are a newbie sewer, the benefit of a bit of reading may stop you heading down a path of doom before you even start! You can view recent reviews (including photos of finished projects) as a guest, but have full access as a member. Use the advanced search page for the best results.

Sew handy: some sewing machine references for the new sewer

How Sewing Machines Work
home.howstuffworks.com/sewing-machine1.htm
I love this entry at How Stuff Works. Not only is there a good basic explanation of the workings of a sewing machine, but there are two completely mesmerising animated diagrams showing stitch formation. Stare at them too long and you will go into a trance.

Sewing Machine Manuals
http://www.sewingmanuals.com/
Lost your sewing machine manual? You're bound to find a replacement here ( ... though admittedly you will have to pay a modest amount for the privilege). Manuals are available as a PDF download or on CD.

Sewing Machine Needle Charts
www.sewing.org/files/guidelines/22_115_sewing_machine_needle_charts.pdf
This very handy table at Sewing.org provides a detailed description of the different types of sewing machine needles. The selection includes: universal, ballpoint, twin, overlocker, jean and leather needles.

Sewing Machine Needle Sizes
www.dummies.com/how-to/content/sewing-machine-needle-size-and-fabric-chart.html

You can always rely on the Dummies site to save the day. If sewing machine needle sizes (including the sizing variations between countries) has you flummoxed, you will appreciate this cheat sheet.

Basic Sewing Machine Maintenance
aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_c/c-102.pdf
This PDF shared by the New Mexico State University says: When you have trouble with your sewing machine, a good rule to follow is “Clean it first.” Many problems are caused by dust, lint or thread ends that have collected on the working parts of the machine. (Lint? Dust? Who'd ever have thunk?) Use their straightforward instructions to perform your own basic machine service.

Specialty Presser Feet
www.simplicitysewing.com/help/FAQ/presser-feet-instructions.asp
Simplicity Homecare provides basic information and diagrams explaining some common speciality presser feet. Find out more about the overcast, narrow hem, blind hem, cording, darning, applique, gathering, pintuck, roller and 1/4 inch feet.

More Speciality Presser Feet
sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/sewingclasses/board.pl?t=27779
Start a whole presser foot collection! PatternReview.com member Loohoo44 has put together an amazing list of links detailing specialty presser feet and uses. All the links point to PDF files residing at www.sewingmachinesplus.com, but so far as I can see the site has no readily accessible index.

Sew handy: some fabric references for the new sewer

Please enjoy a selection of favourite reference bookmarks related to fabric.

Estimated Fabric Yardage Requirements
www.getcreativeshow.com/seminars/yardage-reqirements.htm
Are you a fabric stasher? Do you like buying fabric without a clue as to what you will do with it? See how to estimate yardage when you are buying fabric, but don't yet have a pattern. These tables, provided by Denver Fabrics, give you suggested yardage for shirts, t-shirts, sweatshirts, slacks, skirts and dresses. Measurements are provided in both inches and centimetres.

Fabric Width Conversion Measurements
www.studiotantrum.com/Bonuses/Fabric-conversion2.pdf
(requires a PDF reader)
What do you do when the perfect fabric for your sewing project is the wrong width? Too narrow and you'll run short; too wide and you'll have too much. This table, provided by Studio Tantum, allows you to convert the pattern requirement, based on a range of widths. Measurements are provided in both inches and centimetres. (Similar tables can be readily found on other websites such as Butterick.com, but are stated in inches only.)

Fabrics International Wiki
fabricsinternational.wetpaint.com
This collaborative website is being filled with information by fabric enthusiasts. With each fabric indexed according to content, construction and family, its an interesting read. There are gaps here and there, but the documentation is extensive. Information includes how the fabric is made, its drape, care and sewing challenges. There are also links to pictures of completed projects using each fabric.

Textile Dictionary
www.fabriclink.com/Dictionaries/Textile.cfm
Can't tell your tell your burlap from your boucle? Not sure if its selvage or selvedge? See Fabric Link's textile dictionary. There are no pictures, but plenty of short,helpful definitions.

Fibre Burn Test
www.ditzyprints.com/dpburnchart.html
Do you have unidentifiable fabric in your stash? Why not try the "burn test"? By setting a small piece of your fabric alight, you will be able to get a better idea of the fibre content. Ditsy Prints chart is easy to follow ( ... and fun, if you like burning stuff!)

I've just got big stomach bones ... no really, I have

At some point in the not too distant past, I believe I was the owner of a waist. The recollection is a little hazy (being on account of both my memory - and anything in the abdominal region - having being trashed by child-bearing). Still, older parts of my wardrobe seem to tell a story of a torso that once went a little bit in and then a little bit out again. All in the right spots.

Now as I look in the mirror, there's little evidence as to its prior existence. Ever. My pre-baby figure was never particularly perfect, but the hourglass bit seems to be indelibly stamped in my sense of self. Brown hair, brown eyes, 5-foot-5 and a waist.

Being waistless feels a little bit sad and a whole lot exasperating.

Some clothes no longer fit. Others do, but drape oddly or don't look particularly flattering. I seem to take a pile of wrong things into the fitting room when trying on clothes. And there's been more than one sewn muslin abandoned - just because something fits, doesn't mean you should wear it. I am beginning to see I am attracted to sewing patterns that are likely to produce more misses than hits.

I wonder if once lost, a waist be recaptured? Realistically the odds of it happening again in my lifetime seem somewhat slender. Sure, I could lose a little weight (ok, ok, maybe quite a bit ... or a lot even ... I realise that the I've just got big stomach bones excuse would never wash at Weight Watchers), but I suspect that even as I begin the process of trimming-down, my basic shape is unlikely to change.

So I have been casting around to work out what the new body shape is and how I should dress it. Google helpfully profers shapes and fruits. Am I a rectangle? A triangle? A pear perhaps? Or maybe an apple? Er no, no, no and no.

Just when I was beginning to think I should call myself a paw paw and be done with it, I chanced upon a website called Shop Your Shape. This site has a good body shape calculator. You input your bust, waist and hip measurements in inches and answer a couple of additional questions and the calculator ascertains your shape. (I do have to point out that none of the questions relate to kilos or pounds - afterall the site's by-line is Its Your Shape Not Your Weight That Matters!)

Once the calculator has deduced your shape, you are directed to line diagrams of trousers, skirts, dresses and jackets that are most flattering for that shape. I had a genuine light bulb moment when I saw the recommended styles and colour blockings. Only a few were things I would have intuitively chosen; some I would have actively rejected. But once I saw the logic behind the shapes and lines, I had to agree that I'd be inclined to give them a go.

So now I can shop and select patterns with the confidence of knowing that my body shape is a "Spoon". (Of course the irony of the probable role of the spoon in the disappearance of my waistline, is not entirely lost on me.)

Shop Your Shape
http://www.shopyourshape.com/
Body shape calculator and dressing hints online.
Free. Registration on the site is available, but is not required.
Links to a selection of clothing stores are provided.

A week of lists: 5 places to buy interesting dress fabric in Melbourne

Italian stretch fabric from Carmel's

I am joining in with Meet Me At Mike's excellent Week Of Lists.

This time I am listing some of my favourite places to buy interesting dress fabric in Melbourne. If you're not local, then you might like to check out the websites, as some of these shops sell online too.

1. The Cloth Shop
   A beautiful shop filled with thousands of bolts, including a really wonderful selection of stretchies and some divine evening fabrics. There is off-street parking behind the shop.
   47 Lower Heidelberg Road
   Ivanhoe 3079
theclothshop.com.au


2. Carmel's Fabrics
   A shop like they used to make them. The service is fantastic and the store is jam packed with gorgeous fabric. Carmel's is a 45 minute drive for me ... and worth every bit of the time it takes to get there.
   11 - 13 Como Parade (West)
   Mentone 3194
   carmelsfabrics.com.au


3. Clegs
   I remember how I used to love visiting Clegs with my grandmother when I was a little girl. Its lost none of its allure. The selection of special occasion, eye-candy fabric is just gorgeous.
   60 Elizabeth Street
   Melbourne 3000
   clegs.com.au


4. Tessuti
   The new kid on the block (for Melbourne, that is), Tessuti is laid out like a beautiful boutique and filled with stunning colour-sorted designer fabrics. If you live in Melbourne and sew and haven't been yet, you really must!
   Ground Floor
   141 Flinders Lane
   Melbourne 3000
   tessuti.com.au
   


5. The Sydney Fabric Warehouse
   Huh? Sydney? Admittedly, a little bit on the outskirts of Melbourne (by 963 kilometres) but this shop does fabulous stuff. And as a bonus its online. I have bought a number of pieces of fabric and despite the ability to oooh and ahhh and touch, I haven't been disappointed.
   Sydney Fabric Warehouse

Do you have all-time favourite that belongs on this list? Is there somewhere I need to visit??

Later: more lists, including my favourite sewing tools and publications.

For more lists, head over to Meet Me At Mike's.