Making the grade: trialling a customised pattern service (part 1)

A little while back I stumbled across the term "sewbie". It refers to a newbie sewer; a beginner. Being newish to sewing myself, I quite liked the term. Its kind of cute.

As a sewbie, my journey from stitching innocent to enthusiast, has traversed a standard sort of path.

It started with a bit of cutting and sewing and a pair of pyjama pants. Then a few button holes and a bit of easing and a matching pyjama top. Next came facings, darts and zippers and et voila there was a skirt. Then there was a period of consolidation: sewing from commercial patterns; drafting a few little projects.

All along, though, I knew I'd soon arrive at that sign-posted fork in the road. The big one, where one direction points to "Comfort Zone" (on the flat, of course) and the other to "Real Pattern Alterations" (up a steep hill).

When I did finally arrive, uncharacteristically I chose the hill. You might still see me there sometime: I'm the one puffing asthmatically and puce in the face.

There is, however, a little endorphin rush every now and then. Its exhilarating learning how to be the master of your own sewing destiny. To make something that fits properly; looks flattering; feels comfortable. Recently there's been a flurry of grading and slashing and spreading and redrawing of seam lines on paper patterns. My sewing space is a jumble of calico, tracing paper, pencils, rulers and tape as patterns are redrafted and toiles trialled.

In the midst of my latest class experiments on Misses' tunic top Simplicity 5409 (requiring an FBA, grading on the side seams and a change to the neckline), I received an e-mail. Something that really caught my attention. It was from sewingpatterns.com announcing an innovation: the Perfect Fit Pattern. This new service allows you to input your details (measurements, posture type and photos) when purchasing selected Butterick, McCalls or Neue Mode patterns. The pattern is then altered for you within 7-working days.

"And the cost?", I hear you ask breathlessly (if you are on the same hill as me, that is).

Well, I should say that the finished pattern isn't cheap. At the time of writing its US$24.50 (AU$36.10) for a downloadable version or US$27.50 (AU$40.53) for a paper pattern. This is at least US$10 (AU$14.75) more expensive than a standard paper pattern. However, if you consider the additional cost is really for a service - which I am assuming involves human intervention - it seems relatively inexpensive.

So it all sounds pretty nifty, huh?

At least, I think.

I can't help but wonder whether this will be a little bit like introducing the calculator into schools. (Call me old-fashioned, but does anyone really remember how to do long division, when it counts?). Can a remote pattern alteration service really dispense with the need to make your own changes? Will it be possible to sew lovely fitted clothes without ever knowing the theory or practice of pattern alterations?

I have decided to see.

In the name of "research" I have just purchased McCalls pattern 5758. Its a semi-fitted, hip-length jacket with princess seams. And I'd never have a shadow of a hope of making this jacket without alteration. Substantial alteration.

My measurements between shoulder and hip, includes 4 separate sizes and a bust-line that is 2 cup sizes above a standard, commercial pattern. Without going into inappropriate levels of detail, pregnancy, two gi-normous babies and c-sections, have not been at all kind to my shape. The words tummy and tuck were once uttered in the same breath by my very sensible and conservative obstetrician. (Whilst I sound somewhat grotesque, the reality is that I probably look quite similar to many other slightly overweight 5'4" mums!)

Now if all that doesn't all spell trouble for fit, I really don't know what does.

Anyway, I feel that with my dimensions, I am able to throw down a suitable gauntlet for sewingpatterns.com. Stay tuned - I'll look forward to telling you in up-coming posts about how I have found the service and showing you how well the end garment fits.