Just a minute ... in February

I'm always caught by surprise at the end of February: the month runs out a little faster than the rest. So just in the nick of time, I am joining in with Jenaveve's Just a minute meme. So, this month I have been ...

Growing ...
... in adverse conditions. As you can see above, many plants in our garden have suffered in the exceptionally hot, dry conditions. What remains of the lawn is crunchy underfoot. Once green plants are hued in straw, sand, tan and bronze. Despite great care and attention, our vegetable harvest offered only meagre pickings. All our herbs died. A number of plants that steadfastly weathered years of drought, finally gave up at 47oC. I felt sure that all our beautiful hydrangeas -now a collection of woody sticks, shrivelled leaves and blooms - did not survive. But on the cusp of autumn I see some tiny leaf buds sprouting. March brings with it the promise of a little green.

Reading
... magazines ... and magazines alone this month. Shame on me (the girl who did an English major at uni), but they seem so much easier than books just now. Easily read for a minute here, two minutes there. Consumed in a nonlinear fashion. In my defence, its not the glossy pages chronicling Paris, Lindsay and Katie (well, not too much). I 'd like to think I am broadening my horizons a wee bit. A favourite is the monthly Sewing With Stitches Australia. The current issue (Vol. 17 No. 1) is themed around how to flatter different body shapes. What are the chances that the article discussing pear-shaped figures will give some ideas on adjusting a pattern to cater for ... ahem ... four spare tyres?

Watching ...
... weekly series Life on Mars. I really enjoyed the BBC original, so was a bit skeptical about whether I would be able to watch a remake. But I haven't been disappointed by this US-version. I love the sound track; the costuming; the fantastic cars. And the casting is great - Harvey Keitel makes a very convincing old-school cop, who isn't afraid to swing a few punches. If you haven't seen the show before, its worth a look.

Adopting ...
... a cat, apparently. She has been here all month. As I type, she is swinging on the door, trying to get the momentum up so that it will fly open. I think she is here to stay. Oh ... and according to three year-old Argy, her name is Catty. Yes, we're the epitome of originality here at Chez Hoppo Bumpo.

To see who else is playing along with Just a minute ... head over to Jenaveve's blog, August Street.

Never felt better

So, I dropped a wine bottle on my foot; from a height.
Used hairspray instead of deoderant (sheeesh ... yes, for real).
Found a two metre trail of ants leading to an unidentified scrap of something left in my handbag by a child.

But the day is saved with a little felt therapy. Warm and fuzzy.

Hand-dyed pure wool felt from Little Sparrow.

My creative space

I'm joining in again with Thursday's My Creative Space at Kootoyoo.

Clockwise from top right:

• Ikea 100% cotton Lenda decorator fabric in beige
• Pippijoe's gorgeous hemp-cotton blend Nests
• Thread
• Sewing machine presser feet - for ditch stitching and pin tucking
• Grosgrain ribbon in black

I'm making myself a skirt using all of the above ... I think. I have decided to try a pattern mashup; a hybrid of Butterick B5043 (with lengthened yoke and reduced fullness) and a pin-tucking idea I saw in a magazine. I've never tried pin-tucking before.

As an aside: is it wrong to dress oneself in textiles intended for soft furnishings?

Thank you very much Kirsty for hosting My Creative Space. Its great fun seeing what everyone is doing. To see who else is showing their creative space today (or to join in), head over here.

Seam-along week 6 - overlocked seams

Previously on seam-along ...
Introduction
Week 1 - Simple edge finishes
Week 2 - French seams
Week 3 - Bound seams
Week 4 - Flat fell seams
Week 5 - Taped (stabilised) seams

This week I looked at overlocking - or serging - seams. I tried a couple of methods that create super-fast, beautifully neat seam finishes.

If you don't own an overlocker (serger), don't tune out just yet, as I also tested out a sewing machine alternative, just for you!

Overlocking
If you're not overly familiar with an overlocker, they really are an amazing piece of gadgetry.

Home overlocking (serging) machines generally have two needles and two loopers that create an intertwined stitch using up to four threads. All the thread is spooled from the top of the machine. As a stitch is created, the overlocker also trims away the excess fabric to the right, leaving your seam with a line of perfectly overedged stitching. Overlockers also sew exceptionally quickly - about 1500 stitches per minute - so are much faster than a conventional sewing machine.



While overlockers can do many and varied things, this week I decided to look at two very basic finishes: the three and four thread stitches.

3-thread overlock finish
To begin, I matched the right sides of the fabric together and sewed a plain seam using my regular sewing machine.



Next I opened out the seam allowance and moved to the overlocker. A three-thread stitch needs only one needle, so next I unscrewed and removed the left-hand needle from the machine. I then passed the edge of both seam allowances through the overlocker. The seam below has been overlocked and neatly pressed open.



This three-thread stitch is good for neatening seam edges. If you would like to see the stitching in more detail, I have created a notated picture over here. It explains which parts of the stitching has been created by the needle and each of the loopers.

Rather than opening out the seam you may prefer to stitch the two sides of the seam allowance together and press it to one side. I have done this in the example below. I have flipped it up at the edge closest to you, so that you can see the underside of the stitching.



If you think you might need to alter your seams at any stage, it is a good idea to try and sew very close to the edge of the allowance, so as not to remove to much of the fabric. If this is not an issue, then you can stitch quite close to the original seam line and the overlocker will trim most of the seam allowance off.

4-thread overlock stitch
A four-thread stitch sews the seam, as well overedging and trimming the seam allowance off. When you use this type of stitch, you don't need to create a seam with your sewing machine first.

To create the 4 thread stitching, I attached the left-hand needle to the machine again. Next I placed the right sides of the fabric together and then passed the fabric through the overlocker.

When you use two needles, an additional line of stitching is added. If you look at the photograph below you might (just!) see a red line of stitching running along the left. This is the seam. All the other parts of the stitching (purple, pink and black) form the overedging.



In the example below I have flipped the seam up, so that you can see the underside.



This type of seam is pressed flat to one side. The top side of the seam should be side that had been upper-most when you were stitching.

Faux overlocking - using your sewing machine
Now what if you don't have an overlocker? The good news is some sewing machines come with stitches and presser feet that will approximate an overlocked stitch. The stitch construction is of course more basic than a proper overlocked stitch (as there is just one needle and bobbin) and the machine cannot trim the excess fabric. That said, you can still produce a nice finish.

For this experiment, I purchased an overedge foot for my Janome sewing machine (DC3018), then after consulting my manual selected an overcast stitch. You will need to consult the manual for your particular make and model of sewing machine to see if you can do something similar. I'm assuming that the older and more basic your machine is, the less likely you will be able to do this.



To begin I placed the right sides of my fabric together, then sewed a plain seam. After this I opened out the seam, then sewed using the overcast stitch down both sides of the seam allowance.



The result looks (to the untrained eye and from a distance!) not dissimilar to a real overlocked stitch. It is a very neat finish. The manual for my sewing machine explains that this particular stitch can be used to seam and overedge at the same time - much like the 4-thread stitch on the overlocker.



Conclusion
I haven't owned an overlocker for very long, so I am still learning how to make the best use of it capabilities. I am also trying to overcome my gross incompetence at threading, which has created more problems than I'd care count! That aside, I do love the beautiful neat and very quick finish that the overlocker gives. If you do a lot of sewing, they are awfully handy.

But I am also quite impressed with the nice finish that the sewing machine gives too. I'd have to say that I will be tempted to use this on the occasions when the overlocker and I are not on speaking terms!

Have you been seaming-along? Which is your favourite?

Next Wednesday: Stay tuned next week, when I will be investigating how to finish seams that are getting too bulky. Read more about bulky seams via Google.

The wishlist of unattainables

What would you have in your home if you could? Do you have a secret hankering for something a little unusual? For something seemingly unattainable?

This was been my long-standing list ...

• Industrial doughnut moulder and cooker
• Brannock foot-measuring device
• Commercial pattern books
• Ride-on floor polisher
• Boom gate

That was, until this weekend past. When bingo ... I found the pattern books going for a song.

So with a tall stool and an improvised reading slope, I should be able to recreate the experience of pattern searches in my very own home. Of course, to faithfully replicate the store environment, I shall make sure there's only a stubby broken pencil with which to record my pattern choices.

Now .... on to the boom gate ...

Sunset

Melbourne, 6.50pm

Displaced

With prolonged fires, our avian friends are on the move. Out of the once beautiful bush and into built-up, suburban areas.

We have heard the unusual tink, tink, tink melody of the Bell Miners, as they take up residence in the eucalypts. Bands of flashy, brash Rainbow Lorikeets have shifted into the neighbours' fruit trees.

And then this morning these guys moved in.



A raucous gang of Sulphur-Crested Cockatoos. Perched on our roof; on our little garden shed; on our tinier bird feeder. Wing-spans too large for our suburban garden, but honoured visitors nonetheless.

Eye spy ... love?

I am playing along with Cindy's Eye Spy meme each Sunday. This week we have been asked to spy a bit of love.

Mine relates to our feline guest.

There have been some fruitless enquiries (no micro-chip; no reports of a lost tabby) and a wait to see if she is just passing through. Some detachment. Not getting too involved. Just in case.

Don't get me wrong; we haven't been callous. There has been food. But just the three meals a day, as she was a bit on the thin side. And offering a little bed seemed the right thing to do. Oh and a soft brush for her coat for hygiene. And a little reflective collar with a tinkly bell - for safety you understand. And really ... just the one very small toy to dispel boredom. But apart from that nothing; nada; zip. You know - we don't want to become too attached.

She, on the other hand, has jumped right in. Can't leave us alone. Hasn't left our door step for ... get this ... three weeks. I think it might be love.

Thank you Cindy for hosting Eye Spy and for the lovely theme this week. To see who else is playing, head over here.

Little comforters

Here are some mini minky bunny taggie blankies (try saying that 6 times, fast) I sewed this evening. They are destined for the Rainbow Comfort Packs project and hopefully will be suitable for a baby or very young child.

These small comforters were very quick and simple to put together. Comprising two fat-quarters each, they sandwich some satiny ribbon tags along the edges. I used Beatrix Potter cotton prints for one side and Minky dot fabric for the reverse.

I loved making these ... almost entirely for the joy of working with the minky fabric. I have been looking for an excuse to buy some for ages. It must surely be the most cuddly, silky soft fabric that you could find anywhere.


Minky dot fabric in off-white

I find myself drawn to it; wanting to touch it. The lure is even greater than that of bubble wrap. But that is another story entirely.

Shopping tote

Miraculously, something has appeared from the shambolic mess arrangement, I am claiming is my sewing space.

This is a bag I have made as a gift. It is a boxy shopping tote, made from a pattern that I ripped-off drafted from a cheapy supermarket bag last year.

The outer is Echino's decorator fabric, Plane Squares. Its a lovely vibrant print on a agreeably heavy-weight cotton: quite delightful to sew with.

The lining is a durable, water-resistant rip-stop nylon in Charcoal.

All the seams are sewn to the outside, then bound, to give the inside of the bag a nice finish.

I made the binding from the most beautiful piece of pure linen. Being that my real name is Hoppo Scrooge Bumpo, I purchased just 30cm of the fine (read: expensive) fabric and made straight, rather than bias cut binding. I have never worked with linen before so I had no idea that it frays if you so much as look at it sideways.

I have to say that the the air was blue with profanities as I contended with sewing straight edge binding (that was unravelling) round sweeping curves and through 57843 thicknesses of fabric.

It was ugly - very ugly - there for a while.

Not as ugly as the sewing space though. Best be off to do a clean up.

My creative space

I'm joining in again with Thursday's My Creative Space at Kootoyoo.

I'm not proud of it. But I'm not so proud, so as not to show you.

This is what my creative space looks like this week.

Its a collision of unmade and half-made bags, clothes, toys, homewares and other projects. A veritible wreck of fabric and notions. I'm trying to make a lot of stuff (that's my story and I am sticking to it).

As they say, the road to hell is paved with good intentions.

Thank you very much Kirsty for hosting My Creative Space. Its most enjoyable seeing what other (more tidy) people are working on. To see who else is showing their creative space today (or to join in), head over here.

Seam-along week 5 - stablised seams

Previously on seam-along ...
Introduction
Week 1 - simple edge finishes
Week 2 - French seams
Week 3 - Bound seams
Week 4 - Flat fell seams

This week I looked at how to stabilise seams. Imagine spending time sewing up beautiful seams only to have them sag and spoil your garment or other project? Knits, loose weaves and bias cut fabrics can all be culprits.

To prevent stretching or bagging you can stabilise seams at points such as shoulders, neckline, waist and pockets with tape. Tape firms and holds the seam in place.

Selecting the tape
Before getting started you will need to choose a suitable tape.

Narrow cotton or polyester twill tape is commonly used (below, left). However, you can also use seam selveges (below, right), soft bias cut strips or tape or even clear elastic (below, middle).

Your choice will depend on the sort the work of the seam. Tape will provide the most rigid, stretch-free seam. Bias strips or tape will offer a little give. Elastic will provide the greatest stretch, but allow the seam to recover to its original length.



Clear elastic is often used on stretchy knit garments. If you look through your wardrobe you might find it used around armholes, necklines and at the shoulder.

Measure the length of the tape you need for each seam from your pattern. If you are using elastic it is recommended that you "warm it up" by giving it a stretch a few times before measuring and cutting it.

Taped seam - sewing the seam and tape at the same time
There are two ways to tape a seam. This first method is the quickest.

To begin, place the right sides of your fabric together. Line up the tape over the stitching line for the seam. Stitch as close as possible to the side of the tape. If you are using elastic, avoid stretching it as you sew.



Open out the seam. It will sit best if it is pressed to one side.


As you might (just!) be able to see here, there is a downside to sewing seam and tape at the same time. Here I have opened the seam flat, rather than turning it to one side. The tape has folded a little bit. The seam allowance on the taped side becomes a bit bulkier and uneven.


Taped seam - sewing the seam and tape separately
To create a less bulky seam, you can stitch the seam and the tape separately.

To begin, place the right sides of your fabric together and sew the seam.


Place the tape in the seam allowance, lining it up as closely as possible to the stitch line. (If possible choose the side of the seam allowance that will not be in contact with the fabric, when the seam is pressed.) Stitch the tape in place, ensuring that you stitch as close as possible to the edge.


Open the seam out and preferably press it to one side.


Conclusion
I think I preferred the second method. It looked neater and seemed firmer when I finished. It was only a little bit more work. I am looking forward to trying out clear elastic with a knit fabric I have purchased.

Have you been seaming-along? Which is your favourite?

Next Wednesday: Stay tuned next week, when I will be investigating how to finish seams with overlocking or serging. Read more about stabilising seams via Google.

I only turned my back for a minute ...

One sticker I could understand.
But don't you think that's a tad excessive?


You unfurled how much two-ply
down the s-bend?


What made you think the tricycle
needed embellishing?


The guilty parties (boys and guest cat)
are all pointing fingers/paws at each
other over this crime.


Oh really? I didn't know Babybel cheese
could write on glass.

The sixth in sixth

I've been tagged by incomparable blogging gal, Potty Mouth Mama, to play along with a photo meme.

"Open the 6th picture folder on your computer, open the 6th photo and blog it. Write something about it."

Here is mine - taken on holiday in Niagara Falls in 2001. The accommodation was one (slightly exaggerated) star. There was a hole in the wall. The bed linen was too short for the bed. And stained. And holey from the cigarette burns. I can't remember anything about the bathroom. I think this is my way of coping with what I saw in there.

I feel this picture says everything that really needs to be said about the room decor.

At least the falls scenery was stunning.



If I am following the rules of this meme to the letter, I'd need to select another 6 people to tag. So I'm afraid I'm going to cheat a bit and make this self-service. (I am already embarrassingly behind on acknowledging tags and awards from some very lovely people ... I'm trying to make amends, I promise).

So, if you'd like to play along to, leave a comment ... I'll pop by, as I'd love to see your photo.

Would you consider taking a Liberty?

A handmade shower cap in Liberty print fabric, that is?



Of course you are welcome to take other types of liberties if you wish, but this particular one is raising money for the bushfire appeal.



I have just listed this handmade shower cap on eBay as part of Handmade Help.

The starting price is super-duper cheap at just 99 cents and postage is free worldwide. I will fully match the final selling price with a donation to the Victorian Bushfire Appeal.

If you are interested, please head over to eBay for full details ... and maybe a little bid?

Skills

This week past has made me think about my skills and abilities. Not the sort that one puts on a CV, but things that really count when the chips are down. Things that are of true service to others in the bad times.

And sadly, I realised there weren't many.

I can't fight a fire; rescue people; treat injuries; offer counselling. I have two very small boys and can't leave the family for long periods to volunteer. Money - lots and lots of it - is needed, but like most ordinary people I have finite financial resources to draw on. After pressing the donate button on the Red Cross website a number of times, I realised that in the great scheme of things I felt quite useless.

So thank goodness I learnt to sew last year.

Many hardworking, talented and inspired people have been setting up practical and meaningful ways for people like myself to contribute a small something to the relief effort. On Saturday I joined in a sewing bee, so generously organised and hosted by Nikki. A huge pile of beautiful children's bags (some of which are picture above), appliqued tee-shirts and other items were handmade to help aid Monica's wonderful Rainbow Comfort Pack project. It was good to be able to do something useful.

So for now, sewing it is. Sewing things to sell and raise money. Sewing things with love and care to donate.

Eye Spy... my secret (food) shame

I am playing along with Cindy's Eye Spy meme each Sunday. This week the gorgeous Jade from Just Needs Salt has suggested that we reveal something that we love to eat, but are not proud to admit.

So, here is my secret food shame. Yes, of course .... its mother's little helper: cooking chocolate.

Eaten only in emergencies. Yet consumed with curious regularity. The high cocoa butter and low cocoa mass ensures a sense of cheapness and disappointment. But on a bad day, it will usually suffice. Just. Especially if its the whole block.

Thank you Cindy for hosting Eye Spy and to Jade for the fun theme. To see who else is playing, head over here.

Smoke

Yesterday the smoke started to drift in earnest across Melbourne. Visibility lowered; the sky yellowed. The sun turned an unusual shade of red.

I cannot begin to imagine how horrible it must be where the fires actually burned. The acrid smell. The eye-stinging air. The irritation to the lungs. Day upon day.

The accidental collector

I am a collector of aprons.

I am saying this out loud, to see how it fits. You see, it hadn't dawned on me that I was the owner of a ridgey-didge collection until I opened the draw this morning. There sat the pile of pretty - and mostly handmade - aprons.

One apron: functional. Two: practical. Three or more? Well, perhaps its time to admit that you are starting to stockpile; accumulate; amass.

The collection started when I was nine. It was an oilcloth full-sized apron with a robin pattern repeat. It was a birthday present from my parents and was found when we were living in England. Then later came a leaving gift from colleagues in Montreal. It was a blue plaid apron with a matching chef's hat. Soon after it was joined by a simple white number with a printed motif from Ecole Trois Points a cooking school near Lyon in France. That one has never been washed. As unsavoury as it might sound, the food stains remain for posterity. Next there was the pretty apron I couldn't refuse when Ms CurlyPops opened her shop. Pink and orange are impossible to resist.

Then things went up a notch: the swaps started. Just what is the collective noun for aprons? Mr HB has already helpfully suggested that it might be an excess of aprons.

This is my latest acquisition and its the loveliest apron. I received this from the very talented Debye at C Berry Baby in the Sassy/Flirty Apron Swap. (Do take a look at Debye's lovely blog and amazing online boutique). She has handmade this beauty from an Amy Butler pattern and used the most gorgeous prints. I love all the details on this apron like the series of pretty tucks across the bib. And Debye's sewing is beautiful.

It really does feel like you are putting on a pretty dress (... albeit one that would expose your ... ahem ... derierre) when you are wearing this. I absolutely adore it - thank you so much Debye!





And this was my swap package all ready to wing its way to my swap partner Karen in Salt Lake City, Utah, at the start of the month.



I really enjoyed sewing this apron for Karen, as it was all girly pink stripes and hearts. Such a refreshing change from diggers and trains!

I used a vintage pattern reprint from Simplicity. I have used this pattern (3544) previously, but each of the views are sufficiently different that you feel that you are constructing a completely new style (this time I used view D).

Whilst I love the pattern and would continue to sew from it, I do think the instructions are a little hazy in places. In fact it only occured to me after I posted the apron, that I had probably constructed the pockets incorrectly. Nothing too major; more an accidental cosmetic mistake enhancement.



I trimmed my apron with pale pink homemade bias binding, that was dotted with little red hearts. I also made some heart appliques. Everything went smoothly, except for ironing Wonder-Under to my ironing board cover ... but that, friends, is a story for another day.